Tress Code | Are A Conditioner and Deep Conditioner the Same Thing?
Hello Everyone,
I hope you’re doing well!
In today’s episode of Tress Code, we’re unpacking a popular hair care question: Are deep conditioner and conditioner actually different? For the longest time, I thought they were two separate products—one for a quick rinse, and one for an intense rescue mission. But a TikTok video with a cosmetic chemist (and getting a solid “yep, that’s true” from my mom, a licensed cosmetologist), I learned something surprising: they’re the same product—just used differently.
That’s right. The difference isn’t in the formula; it’s in the application, timing, and intention. So before you buy two versions of the same product, let’s talk about what conditioner really is, how to make it work harder for you, and when (if ever) you need that “deep” label is worth the extra shelf space.
And yes, I am currently pursuing a degree in biochemistry—so you know I had to put my inner scientist to work on this one.
P.S. We’re not touching leave-in conditioners today—that’s a whole other conversation coming soon.
What Is Conditioner, Really?
Conditioner is designed to do three main things:
Smooth the hair cuticle
Reduce friction and tangles
Add softness and shine
From a cosmetic chemistry standpoint, most conditioners contain:
Cationic surfactants (like behentrimonium chloride) to reduce static and soften
Emollients to coat the hair
Humectants to draw in moisture
Fragrance and thickening agents for aesthetics
💡 Fun Fact: Conditioner doesn’t “heal” hair—it coats it to improve appearance and feel. Hair is dead protein. There’s no reviving it, only preserving it.
So What Makes It ‘Deep’?
Contrary to what the label may suggest, “deep” conditioners aren’t necessarily more potent—they’re just used more intentionally. Here's how:
Longer time on hair: 3–30 minutes versus an immediate rinse.
Added heat: opens up the cuticle, allowing better product absorption
Thicker consistency: often encourages people to use more and leave it in longer
In other words, deep conditioning is a technique, not a different chemical category.
🔍 Pro Tip (s): Want to “deep condition”? Use your regular conditioner, sit under a steamer or heated cap, and let it marinate. Boom. AND professional conditioners are highly concentrated and typically only need 3 - 10 minutes to work their magic. (e.g. Amika or Biolage).
This chart breaks down the real differences between conditioner, deep conditioner, and leave-in conditioner—from how often to use them to which myths to stop believing. Perfect for understanding your hair routine in one glance!
Is It Just Marketing? (Spoiler: Sometimes, Yes)
Many brands sell nearly identical formulas as both a conditioner and a deep conditioner. The difference? One is in a pump bottle and the other in a tub—with a price bump.
That said, there are exceptions:
Protein treatments
Reconstructive masks
Oils or butters in higher concentrations
These may have functional differences, but not all “deep conditioners” go that extra mile.
🧪 Your best tool? The ingredient list. Not the marketing copy.
When Should You Deep Condition?
While some sources claim that weekly deep conditioning isn't necessary for everyone, those of us who’ve grown up around cosmetologists—and the healthy-hair girlies of the internet—know otherwise: a weekly deep condition is often what keeps hair thriving, not just surviving.
Here’s when it’s especially essential:
After chemical services (color, bleach, relaxer)
After chlorine/saltwater exposure
During colder months or in dry climates
If your hair feels rough, dry, or matted—even with regular conditioner
And honestly? As weekly maintenance—because prevention > damage control
💡 It’s not about your hair being damaged—it’s about keeping it nourished consistently. Think of deep conditioning like weekly skincare masks: not urgent, but oh-so beneficial.
Conclusion: One Product, Multiple Uses
You don’t need three types of conditioners for one head of hair. With a solid, well-formulated conditioner and some intentionality, you can hydrate, soften, and protect your strands—no extra labels required.
Use it fast. Use it slow. Use it smart.
✨ Hair care should work for you, not confuse you. That’s the real tress code.
Tress Code | Discover Your Moisture Blueprint
Hello Everyone,
I hope all is well and you are thriving!
In today’s episode of our Tress Code series, where science meets self-care, we’re diving into one of the most important (and honestly, underrated) parts of hair care—porosity. If you’ve ever felt like your hair drinks up product like a smoothie, or just lets it sit there like it’s been left on “read,” you’re not alone. Understanding porosity is the key to unlocking a routine that actually works—and one that supports your hair's natural moisture flow instead of fighting against it.
What Is Hair Porosity, Really?
Hair porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. It’s less about your curl pattern and more about the structure of your hair cuticle—the outer layer that acts like a gatekeeper for hydration. Think of it like your hair’s “moisture door”: is it locked tight, halfway open, or wide open with no screen?
It’s important to emphasize that porosity isn’t the same as curl pattern. Curl pattern refers to the shape of your strands, while porosity is all about how your hair behaves with moisture. You can have straight hair with high porosity or tight coils with low porosity—it all comes down to how open or sealed your cuticle layer is, not how your hair looks.
🔍 Quick Science Note:
Your porosity is influenced by genetics, chemical processes (like bleach, relaxers, or keratin treatments), heat damage, and even your climate or water quality. So yes—it can change over time.
✨ Whether you wear your hair straight, wavy, or curly, knowing your porosity helps you choose the right:
Products (lightweight vs. rich)
Techniques (steam vs. cold rinses)
Oils or butters (depending on how well your hair seals)
The Water Test: Try This at Home
If you’re not sure what your porosity is, there’s a super simple at-home method to give you a quick clue: The Water Test. All you need is a clean glass of water and a single strand of hair.
What Your Results Might Mean:
Floats at the top → You likely have low porosity hair. The cuticle layer is tightly sealed, making it harder for water to penetrate.
Hovers in the middle → This suggests medium/normal porosity. Your hair lets in just the right amount of moisture and holds onto it well.
Sinks quickly to the bottom → You’re probably dealing with high porosity hair. Moisture floods in fast but can escape just as easily.
⚠️ Important Note:
This test is a starting point—not a final diagnosis. Hair texture, product residue, and even water temperature can affect results. For the most accurate read, pair the test with how your hair actually behaves day-to-day (which we’ll cover in the next section).
Porosity Profiles: Spot Your Type
Even if the water test gave you a clue, your day-to-day hair behavior can tell you way more. Below are the hallmark signs of each porosity type—plus how to work with your hair’s nature, not against it.
Low Porosity Hair
Signs:
Water beads on your hair instead of soaking in
Products tend to sit on top (hello, build-up)
Takes forever to air-dry
Protein treatments make your hair feel stiff or brittle
Moisture Blueprint:
Quench: Use lightweight, water-based leave-ins and warm water to help open the cuticle.
Seal: Light oils like argan, grapeseed, or sweet almond that won’t weigh hair down.
🔑Pro tip: Apply deep conditioner with heat or steam to help it penetrate.
Medium (Normal) Porosity Hair
Signs:
Hair absorbs and holds moisture well
Styles last without frizzing out too fast
Air-dries in a reasonable amount of time
Not overly sensitive to protein or product changes
Moisture Blueprint:
Quench: Use balanced, cream-based products that hydrate without overloading.
Seal: Midweight oils like jojoba, olive, or baobab.
🔑 Pro tip: Keep your routine consistent but simple—your hair likes balance.
High Porosity Hair
Signs:
Soaks up water fast—but dries just as quickly
Always feels dry or frizzy no matter how much product you use
Gets easily tangled or rough to the touch
Responds well to protein treatments (at first)
Moisture Blueprint:
Quench: Use rich, protein-infused deep conditioners to strengthen the cuticle.
Seal: Thick oils or butters like castor oil, shea butter, or cupuaçu.
🔑 Pro tip: Finish with a cool water rinse or a pH-balancing conditioner to help smooth lifted cuticles and reduce moisture loss.
Porosity Myths—Busted
There’s a lot of misinformation floating around when it comes to porosity. Let’s clear a few things up:
❌ “Your porosity never changes.”
Truth: Porosity can absolutely change over time. Chemical treatments, heat styling, sun exposure, and even your water quality (like hard water) can raise or damage your cuticle, shifting your porosity level.
❌ “Porosity only matters for curly hair.”
Truth: Porosity affects everyone with hair—regardless of texture, ethnicity, or styling routine. It's about moisture flow, not hair shape.
❌ “If your hair is dry, just add more product.”
Truth: It’s not just what you use—it’s how your hair absorbs and holds it. Without understanding porosity, you might be piling on products that never truly penetrate.
❌ “Protein is bad for your hair.”
Truth: Protein is essential for high porosity hair—but too much can make low porosity hair feel stiff or coated. Balance and porosity-aware usage matter more than generalizations.
❌ “You can tell your porosity just by looking at your hair.”
Truth: Porosity is a microscopic characteristic—it’s about how the cuticle layer behaves, not how shiny, thick, or frizzy your hair looks. Testing and paying attention to how your hair absorbs and retains moisture is more reliable.
❌ “The water test is 100% accurate.”
Truth: The water test is just one clue—not a definitive answer. It can be influenced by surface tension, leftover product, or the diameter of your hair strand. Always pair it with how your hair responds to real-life moisture.
🧭 What’s Your Moisture Blueprint?
Now that you understand how porosity works, you’re one step closer to building a hair care routine that actually makes sense for you. Whether your hair holds onto moisture for dear life or lets it slip right through, knowing your porosity helps you work with your hair—not fight it.
Ready to take the next step? Head over to Tress Code | The Quench & Seal Duo for Your Porosity—where I break down the best oils for each porosity type and introduce a universal hydrating scalp serum that can support retention from the root.
It’s not about overloading your routine—it’s about pairing the right nourishment with your hair’s structure.
Already found your porosity match?
👉 Share your experience, tag me in your #MoistureBlueprint, or comment below with your favorite sealers. Let’s decode this together.
Tress Code | The Quench and Seal Duo for Your Porosity
Hello Everyone,
I hope all is well!
In today’s episode we will be discussing hair oils that would pair well with your porosity!
When it comes to healthy, thriving hair, length isn’t just something you grow—it’s something you keep. And keeping it starts with mastering the two-part routine your hair craves: quenching it with moisture and sealing that moisture in. The key? Knowing your hair's porosity. Whether your strands soak in hydration like a sponge or resist it like a waterproof coat, matching the right hydrating serum and oil combo to your porosity level can transform your hair’s ability to retain length, shine, and strength.
Low Porosity Hair: Seal and Soften Without Suffocating
Porosity Profile:
Tightly closed cuticles. Moisture and products struggle to get in, but once they’re in, they tend to stay. Prone to buildup.
What to Look For in Serums:
Look for water-based, protein-free serums with light humectants like aloe or hyaluronic acid that absorb best with heat.
Hydrating Serums to Quench:
Aloe Vera Juice Mist – Lightweight and soothing, it gently hydrates without overwhelming closed cuticles.
Rose Water + Glycerin Blend – A humectant-rich spray that softens and draws in moisture gradually.
Numbuzin No. 6 Deep Sleep Mask Serum – A water-based serum packed with humectants and hyaluronic acid that hydrates effectively without buildup; best applied with steam or on damp hair.
What to Look For in Oils:
Lightweight, penetrating oils that won’t sit on top or cause greasy buildup.
Best Oils:
Argan Oil – Lightweight, rich in Vitamin E, helps soften and smooth without weighing hair down.
Sweet Almond Oil – Absorbs easily, boosts elasticity, and smells divine.
Jojoba Oil – Mimics natural sebum, balances scalp and moisturizes ends.
Grapeseed Oil – Ultra light, strengthens strands and helps with frizz control.
Pumpkin Seed Oil—a versatile, DHT-blocking, antioxidant-rich oil that works across all porosity levels when applied with intention.
Camellia Oil – A silky, non-greasy oil rich in oleic acid rather than linoleic acid, it absorbs better with heat and adds softness without buildup.
Tip:
Apply oils after using steam or heat to help open the cuticle for better absorption.
Medium/Normal Porosity Hair: Maintain and Nourish
Porosity Profile:
Cuticles are looser and balanced—moisture is absorbed and retained fairly well. This type is most adaptable.
What to Look For in Serums:
Look for balanced serums with moderate humectants, antioxidants, and hydration that won’t overwhelm or underdeliver.
Hydrating Serums to Quench:
Aloe + Green Tea Leave-In Spray – Lightweight but rich in antioxidants and gentle hydration.
Rice Water Ferment Mist – Adds strength and slip while keeping moisture levels steady.
Flaxseed Gel-Based Serum – Natural curl definition with moisture-binding properties.
Numbuzin No. 6 Deep Sleep Mask Serum – Balances hydration levels perfectly with a blend of humectants, hyaluronic acid, and soothing botanicals for healthy elasticity and softness.
What to Look For in Oils:
Versatile oils that nourish, protect, and enhance shine without disrupting moisture balance.
Best Oils:
Olive Oil – Strengthens, softens, and adds sheen without being too heavy.
Avocado Oil – Full of vitamins A, D, and E; deeply nourishing and great for occasional hot oil treatments.
Pumpkin Seed Oil—a versatile, DHT-blocking, antioxidant-rich oil that works across all porosity levels when applied with intention.
Camellia Oil – Lightweight but potent—used in Japanese haircare for centuries.
Marula Oil – Antioxidant-rich and smoothing without clogging follicles.
Tip:
Layer oils with leave-ins or light creams for a retention-friendly routine.
High Porosity Hair: Fill, Fortify, and Lock It In
Porosity Profile:
Gaps in the cuticle layer let moisture in easily—but it also escapes quickly. More prone to frizz and dryness.
What to Look For in Serums:
Look for rich, humectant-heavy serums with strengthening ingredients like panthenol or protein to deeply hydrate and fill gaps.
Hydrating Serums to Quench:
Aloe Vera Gel or Juice + Honey Mix – Deeply hydrating, ideal for filling in porous gaps.
Hydrating Leave-In with Glycerin + Panthenol – Holds water in and adds strength to weak spots.
Numbuzin No. 6 Deep Sleep Mask Serum – A deeply quenching serum with multiple forms of hyaluronic acid and botanicals that restore moisture and smoothness to overly porous strands.
What to Look For in Oils:
Heavier, sealing oils that can fill cuticle gaps and prevent moisture loss.
Best Oils:
Castor Oil (Jamaican Black Castor Oil) – Thick and sealing, great for ends and edges.
Shea Butter Oil – Rich in fatty acids, creates a barrier that locks in hydration.
Baobab Oil – Strengthens and restores elasticity, ideal for damaged high porosity strands.
Hemp Seed Oil – Fatty acid-rich, boosts scalp health and improves density.
Pumpkin Seed Oil—a versatile, DHT-blocking, antioxidant-rich oil that works across all porosity levels when applied with intention.
Camellia Oil – Lightweight yet nutrient-rich, it helps smooth frayed cuticles and reduce moisture loss when layered properly. Ideal when layered under heavier oils or butters.
Tip:
Use oil as the final step in your LOC or LCO method to seal in moisture and minimize breakage.
Final Thoughts: The Science of Retention is Personal
Hydration keeps your strands supple and elastic—preventing breakage from dryness. Sealing locks in that moisture, extending the time your hair stays hydrated between wash days. One without the other is like watering a plant and forgetting to mulch it. For lasting retention, you need both the quench and the seal.
Tress Code | Hair Growth vs. Hair Retention
Hello Everyone,
I hope all is well!
Welcome to Tress Code—a series decoding the rules, rituals, and real science behind diverse hair care, for all textures and porosities, one strand at a time.
Most of us have stared at our ends in frustration, wondering “Why isn’t my hair growing?” The truth is—it probably is. But there’s a difference between hair growth and hair retention, and if you don’t understand how to retain what you grow, your inches will stay stuck in limbo. Add to that the overlooked factor of hair porosity, and you’ve got a cocktail of confusion.
Let’s break it all down—then rebuild your routine, smarter.
Hair Growth vs. Hair Retention: Why Porosity and Product Choice Matter More Than You Think
Most of us have stared at our ends in frustration, wondering "Why isn’t my hair growing?" The truth is—it probably is. But there’s a difference between hair growth and hair retention, and if you don’t understand how to retain what you grow, your inches will stay stuck in limbo. Add to that the overlooked factor of hair porosity, and you’ve got a cocktail of confusion.
Let’s break it all down—then rebuild your routine, smarter.
What’s the Difference Between Hair Growth and Retention?
Hair Growth happens at the root—deep within the scalp. Influenced by genetics, hormones, nutrition, and blood flow to your follicles, your hair is likely growing about half an inch per month on average.
Hair Retention is about keeping the length you’ve grown. Breakage, dryness, heat damage, and over-manipulation cause the ends to snap off before you can ever see that progress.
🔑 Key Takeaway: You don’t need a miracle serum—you need a moisture-retention and repair strategy.
Enter Hair Porosity: The Moisture Gatekeeper
Hair porosity refers to how your hair absorbs and retains moisture, and it directly affects how your products perform.
Types of Hair Porosity
Low Porosity: Tight cuticles, moisture-resistant. Prone to buildup but retains well once hydrated.
Medium Porosity: Balanced. Absorbs and retains moisture with ease.
High Porosity: Raised or damaged cuticles. Moisture rushes in—but leaves just as fast.
Hydration Starts at the Root (Literally)
Yes, hydration starts within—but it doesn’t stop there. Here’s how to hydrate internally and externally:
Internally: Drink half your body weight in ounces of water daily.
Externally: Use a hyaluronic acid scalp serum to boost moisture retention. While brands like The Ordinary are popular, the Numbuzin No. 6 Deep Sleep Mask (a K-beauty cult favorite) can be gently massaged into the scalp as an overnight treatment. It's lightweight, layering-friendly, and suitable for all porosity types—especially beneficial for low and medium porosity hair that need water-based hydration without buildup.
Ditch Satin. Upgrade to Silk.
Satin may look luxurious, but most versions are made from synthetic plastic fibers that cause friction, frizz, and dryness. 100% silk pillowcases or silk-lined bonnets are the real MVPs for protecting hair overnight—especially if you’re trying to retain moisture and prevent breakage.
The Trim Talk: Don’t Skip It
One of the easiest ways to retain length is to get rid of what’s holding you back—literally. Split ends and knots will travel up the shaft, weakening your hair if you don’t trim regularly
🔑 Key Takeaway: Schedule a trim every 8–12 weeks—or whenever your ends start tangling, splitting, or feeling crunchy.
Retention Tricks You Might Be Missing
Mini Twists: Especially for 4A–4C girls, mini twists are a protective style goldmine. They reduce manipulation, preserve length, and allow for easy moisturizing.
Flaxseed Oil Pre-Poo: Don’t sleep on it! Flaxseed oil softens hair, adds shine, and reduces breakage before wash day. For high porosity hair, layer with heavier oils like castor.
Scalp Massages: Boost circulation with rosemary oil-infused massages 3x a week.
Deep Conditioning: Weekly or biweekly deep conditioning is essential for moisture retention. Use a steam cap or hooded dryer for best results.
The Role of Protein and Repair
Hair is made of keratin, a protein. Moisture is essential, but if your strands feel overly soft, stretchy, or weak, you may be lacking structural support. That’s where protein treatments and reconstruction masks come in.
When to Use Protein or Bond Repair:
Limp, mushy, or overly moisturized hair
Frequent shedding or breakage
After bleaching, coloring, or silk presses
Difficulty holding styles or curl patterns
🔑 Key Takeaway: Incorporate protein-rich masks or bond-repair treatments every 4–6 weeks, especially if your hair is color-treated or highly porous.
Hair Oils to Support Growth & Retention
Hair oils aren't just for shine—they're essential tools in any growth and retention strategy. The right oils help nourish the scalp, stimulate blood flow, seal in moisture, and protect strands from environmental stressors. Different oils offer different benefits depending on your porosity, so choosing the right one can dramatically improve your hair's strength, softness, and ability to retain length.
The Toxin Trap: Why Non-Toxic Hair Products Matter
Your scalp is skin—and what you put on it, enters your body. Many mainstream products still contain:
Parabens
Phthalates
Synthetic fragrance
Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives
These can disrupt hormones, inflame the scalp, and stunt growth over time. Choosing non-toxic, plant-based brands helps reduce scalp stress and long-term damage.
Tip: Always review ingredient lists—even clean or global brands may have select formulas that include alcohols, fragrance, or silicone-based fillers. Choose wisely, and patch-test if you're unsure.
🦄 Final Thoughts
You’re not losing a growth battle—you’re overlooking a retention and repair strategy. With the right knowledge of your hair porosity, consistent trims, protein reinforcement, and non-toxic hydration, your inches won’t just grow—they’ll stay.
