Tress Code | Discover Your Moisture Blueprint
Hello Everyone,
I hope all is well and you are thriving!
In today’s episode of our Tress Code series, where science meets self-care, we’re diving into one of the most important (and honestly, underrated) parts of hair care—porosity. If you’ve ever felt like your hair drinks up product like a smoothie, or just lets it sit there like it’s been left on “read,” you’re not alone. Understanding porosity is the key to unlocking a routine that actually works—and one that supports your hair's natural moisture flow instead of fighting against it.
What Is Hair Porosity, Really?
Hair porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. It’s less about your curl pattern and more about the structure of your hair cuticle—the outer layer that acts like a gatekeeper for hydration. Think of it like your hair’s “moisture door”: is it locked tight, halfway open, or wide open with no screen?
It’s important to emphasize that porosity isn’t the same as curl pattern. Curl pattern refers to the shape of your strands, while porosity is all about how your hair behaves with moisture. You can have straight hair with high porosity or tight coils with low porosity—it all comes down to how open or sealed your cuticle layer is, not how your hair looks.
🔍 Quick Science Note:
Your porosity is influenced by genetics, chemical processes (like bleach, relaxers, or keratin treatments), heat damage, and even your climate or water quality. So yes—it can change over time.
✨ Whether you wear your hair straight, wavy, or curly, knowing your porosity helps you choose the right:
Products (lightweight vs. rich)
Techniques (steam vs. cold rinses)
Oils or butters (depending on how well your hair seals)
The Water Test: Try This at Home
If you’re not sure what your porosity is, there’s a super simple at-home method to give you a quick clue: The Water Test. All you need is a clean glass of water and a single strand of hair.
What Your Results Might Mean:
Floats at the top → You likely have low porosity hair. The cuticle layer is tightly sealed, making it harder for water to penetrate.
Hovers in the middle → This suggests medium/normal porosity. Your hair lets in just the right amount of moisture and holds onto it well.
Sinks quickly to the bottom → You’re probably dealing with high porosity hair. Moisture floods in fast but can escape just as easily.
⚠️ Important Note:
This test is a starting point—not a final diagnosis. Hair texture, product residue, and even water temperature can affect results. For the most accurate read, pair the test with how your hair actually behaves day-to-day (which we’ll cover in the next section).
Porosity Profiles: Spot Your Type
Even if the water test gave you a clue, your day-to-day hair behavior can tell you way more. Below are the hallmark signs of each porosity type—plus how to work with your hair’s nature, not against it.
Low Porosity Hair
Signs:
Water beads on your hair instead of soaking in
Products tend to sit on top (hello, build-up)
Takes forever to air-dry
Protein treatments make your hair feel stiff or brittle
Moisture Blueprint:
Quench: Use lightweight, water-based leave-ins and warm water to help open the cuticle.
Seal: Light oils like argan, grapeseed, or sweet almond that won’t weigh hair down.
🔑Pro tip: Apply deep conditioner with heat or steam to help it penetrate.
Medium (Normal) Porosity Hair
Signs:
Hair absorbs and holds moisture well
Styles last without frizzing out too fast
Air-dries in a reasonable amount of time
Not overly sensitive to protein or product changes
Moisture Blueprint:
Quench: Use balanced, cream-based products that hydrate without overloading.
Seal: Midweight oils like jojoba, olive, or baobab.
🔑 Pro tip: Keep your routine consistent but simple—your hair likes balance.
High Porosity Hair
Signs:
Soaks up water fast—but dries just as quickly
Always feels dry or frizzy no matter how much product you use
Gets easily tangled or rough to the touch
Responds well to protein treatments (at first)
Moisture Blueprint:
Quench: Use rich, protein-infused deep conditioners to strengthen the cuticle.
Seal: Thick oils or butters like castor oil, shea butter, or cupuaçu.
🔑 Pro tip: Finish with a cool water rinse or a pH-balancing conditioner to help smooth lifted cuticles and reduce moisture loss.
Porosity Myths—Busted
There’s a lot of misinformation floating around when it comes to porosity. Let’s clear a few things up:
❌ “Your porosity never changes.”
Truth: Porosity can absolutely change over time. Chemical treatments, heat styling, sun exposure, and even your water quality (like hard water) can raise or damage your cuticle, shifting your porosity level.
❌ “Porosity only matters for curly hair.”
Truth: Porosity affects everyone with hair—regardless of texture, ethnicity, or styling routine. It's about moisture flow, not hair shape.
❌ “If your hair is dry, just add more product.”
Truth: It’s not just what you use—it’s how your hair absorbs and holds it. Without understanding porosity, you might be piling on products that never truly penetrate.
❌ “Protein is bad for your hair.”
Truth: Protein is essential for high porosity hair—but too much can make low porosity hair feel stiff or coated. Balance and porosity-aware usage matter more than generalizations.
❌ “You can tell your porosity just by looking at your hair.”
Truth: Porosity is a microscopic characteristic—it’s about how the cuticle layer behaves, not how shiny, thick, or frizzy your hair looks. Testing and paying attention to how your hair absorbs and retains moisture is more reliable.
❌ “The water test is 100% accurate.”
Truth: The water test is just one clue—not a definitive answer. It can be influenced by surface tension, leftover product, or the diameter of your hair strand. Always pair it with how your hair responds to real-life moisture.
🧭 What’s Your Moisture Blueprint?
Now that you understand how porosity works, you’re one step closer to building a hair care routine that actually makes sense for you. Whether your hair holds onto moisture for dear life or lets it slip right through, knowing your porosity helps you work with your hair—not fight it.
Ready to take the next step? Head over to Tress Code | The Quench & Seal Duo for Your Porosity—where I break down the best oils for each porosity type and introduce a universal hydrating scalp serum that can support retention from the root.
It’s not about overloading your routine—it’s about pairing the right nourishment with your hair’s structure.
Already found your porosity match?
👉 Share your experience, tag me in your #MoistureBlueprint, or comment below with your favorite sealers. Let’s decode this together.
