Hello Everyone,

I hope all is well!

Welcome to Tress Code—a series decoding the rules, rituals, and real science behind diverse hair care, for all textures and porosities, one strand at a time.

Most of us have stared at our ends in frustration, wondering “Why isn’t my hair growing?” The truth is—it probably is. But there’s a difference between hair growth and hair retention, and if you don’t understand how to retain what you grow, your inches will stay stuck in limbo. Add to that the overlooked factor of hair porosity, and you’ve got a cocktail of confusion.

Let’s break it all down—then rebuild your routine, smarter.

Hair Growth vs. Hair Retention: Why Porosity and Product Choice Matter More Than You Think

Most of us have stared at our ends in frustration, wondering "Why isn’t my hair growing?" The truth is—it probably is. But there’s a difference between hair growth and hair retention, and if you don’t understand how to retain what you grow, your inches will stay stuck in limbo. Add to that the overlooked factor of hair porosity, and you’ve got a cocktail of confusion.

Let’s break it all down—then rebuild your routine, smarter.

What’s the Difference Between Hair Growth and Retention?

  • Hair Growth happens at the root—deep within the scalp. Influenced by genetics, hormones, nutrition, and blood flow to your follicles, your hair is likely growing about half an inch per month on average.

  • Hair Retention is about keeping the length you’ve grown. Breakage, dryness, heat damage, and over-manipulation cause the ends to snap off before you can ever see that progress.

🔑 Key Takeaway: You don’t need a miracle serum—you need a moisture-retention and repair strategy.

Enter Hair Porosity: The Moisture Gatekeeper

Hair porosity refers to how your hair absorbs and retains moisture, and it directly affects how your products perform.

Types of Hair Porosity

  • Low Porosity: Tight cuticles, moisture-resistant. Prone to buildup but retains well once hydrated.

  • Medium Porosity: Balanced. Absorbs and retains moisture with ease.

  • High Porosity: Raised or damaged cuticles. Moisture rushes in—but leaves just as fast.

Hydration Starts at the Root (Literally)

Yes, hydration starts within—but it doesn’t stop there. Here’s how to hydrate internally and externally:

  • Internally: Drink half your body weight in ounces of water daily.

  • Externally: Use a hyaluronic acid scalp serum to boost moisture retention. While brands like The Ordinary are popular, the Numbuzin No. 6 Deep Sleep Mask (a K-beauty cult favorite) can be gently massaged into the scalp as an overnight treatment. It's lightweight, layering-friendly, and suitable for all porosity types—especially beneficial for low and medium porosity hair that need water-based hydration without buildup.

Ditch Satin. Upgrade to Silk.

Satin may look luxurious, but most versions are made from synthetic plastic fibers that cause friction, frizz, and dryness. 100% silk pillowcases or silk-lined bonnets are the real MVPs for protecting hair overnight—especially if you’re trying to retain moisture and prevent breakage.

The Trim Talk: Don’t Skip It

One of the easiest ways to retain length is to get rid of what’s holding you back—literally. Split ends and knots will travel up the shaft, weakening your hair if you don’t trim regularly

🔑 Key Takeaway: Schedule a trim every 8–12 weeks—or whenever your ends start tangling, splitting, or feeling crunchy.

Retention Tricks You Might Be Missing

  • Mini Twists: Especially for 4A–4C girls, mini twists are a protective style goldmine. They reduce manipulation, preserve length, and allow for easy moisturizing.

  • Flaxseed Oil Pre-Poo: Don’t sleep on it! Flaxseed oil softens hair, adds shine, and reduces breakage before wash day. For high porosity hair, layer with heavier oils like castor.

  • Scalp Massages: Boost circulation with rosemary oil-infused massages 3x a week.

  • Deep Conditioning: Weekly or biweekly deep conditioning is essential for moisture retention. Use a steam cap or hooded dryer for best results.

The Role of Protein and Repair

Hair is made of keratin, a protein. Moisture is essential, but if your strands feel overly soft, stretchy, or weak, you may be lacking structural support. That’s where protein treatments and reconstruction masks come in.

When to Use Protein or Bond Repair:

  • Limp, mushy, or overly moisturized hair

  • Frequent shedding or breakage

  • After bleaching, coloring, or silk presses

  • Difficulty holding styles or curl patterns

🔑 Key Takeaway: Incorporate protein-rich masks or bond-repair treatments every 4–6 weeks, especially if your hair is color-treated or highly porous.

Hair Oils to Support Growth & Retention

Hair oils aren't just for shine—they're essential tools in any growth and retention strategy. The right oils help nourish the scalp, stimulate blood flow, seal in moisture, and protect strands from environmental stressors. Different oils offer different benefits depending on your porosity, so choosing the right one can dramatically improve your hair's strength, softness, and ability to retain length.

The Toxin Trap: Why Non-Toxic Hair Products Matter

Your scalp is skin—and what you put on it, enters your body. Many mainstream products still contain:

  • Parabens

  • Phthalates

  • Synthetic fragrance

  • Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives

These can disrupt hormones, inflame the scalp, and stunt growth over time. Choosing non-toxic, plant-based brands helps reduce scalp stress and long-term damage.

Tip: Always review ingredient lists—even clean or global brands may have select formulas that include alcohols, fragrance, or silicone-based fillers. Choose wisely, and patch-test if you're unsure.

🦄 Final Thoughts

You’re not losing a growth battle—you’re overlooking a retention and repair strategy. With the right knowledge of your hair porosity, consistent trims, protein reinforcement, and non-toxic hydration, your inches won’t just grow—they’ll stay.

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