Tress Code | Why Heat Protectant Matters (and Why Sometimes Silicones Are Okay)
Hello Everyone,
I hope all is well!
Today’s Tress Code episode tackles one of the most debated topics in haircare: heat protectants and their relationship with silicones. If you’ve spent time scrolling hair forums or TikTok, you’ve probably heard warnings that silicones are “bad” for your hair. But as cosmetic chemist Javon Ford explained in one of his breakdowns, the reality is far more nuanced. Sometimes, silicones are exactly what your hair needs—especially when heat is involved.
The Science of Heat Damage
When you put a flat iron, blow dryer, or curling wand to your hair, you’re exposing the strands to temperatures anywhere from 250°F to 450°F. At those levels:
Water boils inside the hair shaft → leading to bubbling and breakage.
Proteins denature → causing brittleness and loss of elasticity.
Cuticle cracks → making hair dull, frizzy, and prone to split ends.
Heat protectants exist to minimize this thermal stress. Think of them as an invisible shield that coats the strand, slows heat transfer, and reduces moisture loss.
Where Silicones Come In
Silicones—like dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane—are polymers that form a thin, flexible film on the hair. This film is actually what makes them so effective as heat protectants:
They disperse heat more evenly along the strand.
They reduce friction between the hair and styling tools.
They lock in moisture and slow evaporation.
Some (like amodimethicone) are cationic and selectively deposit where damage is highest, which means less buildup than people assume.
As Javon Ford puts it: “Silicones aren’t the enemy. They’re a tool—and when used in the right context, they can be the best tool you have.”
Why the “Silicone-Free” Debate Exists
The backlash against silicones mostly comes from:
Build-up concerns → certain silicones resist water and need a sulfate or clarifying wash to remove fully.
Aesthetic preferences → some feel silicones coat hair too much, making it feel “waxy” or “heavy.”
Green beauty marketing → “silicone-free” has become a buzzword for “clean” products.
But here’s the key distinction: silicones in heat protectants serve a different role than silicones in your daily conditioner. You don’t have to fear them if you’re only applying before heat styling and cleansing regularly.
How to Use Silicones Smartly
Choose lightweight formulas → sprays or serums that don’t feel greasy.
Apply sparingly → a thin coating is all you need.
Clarify occasionally → use a gentle detox shampoo every 2–4 weeks if you heat style often.
Alternate with non-silicone protectants → for air-dry days, you can use protein- or polymer-based protectants (like polyquaterniums, hydrolyzed wheat protein, or natural esters).
Recommended Heat Protectants
🌟 Silicone-Based (Great for High Heat Styling)
CHI 44 Iron Guard Thermal Protection Spray – Professional, salon-favorite protectant that uses hydrolyzed silk + silicones to shield hair up to 450°F.
Redken Extreme Play Safe 450 – A leave-in treatment that doubles as a heat protectant and protein repair cream.
Olaplex No. 9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum – Silicone-based serum that protects against heat up to 450°F while defending from pollution.
🌿 Silicone-Free (Best for Low to Moderate Heat, or Everyday Use)
JVN Complete Instant Recovery Serum – Lightweight, silicone-free leave-in serum; repairs, detangles, and protects up to 450 °F with hemisqualane + niacinamide.
Innersense Hair Love Prep Spray – Silicone-free pump spray, vegan, and EWG-verified. Uses rice protein and baobab seed oil for heat protection.
Aveda Heat Relief Thermal Protector & Conditioning Mist – Plant-based polymers in a pump bottle (not aerosol); cruelty-free.
Briogeo Farewell Frizz Blow Dry Perfection & Heat Protectant Crème – Silicone-free cream with rosehip, argan, and coconut oils; protects up to 450 °F.
📚 Further Learning
If you want to dive deeper into the science of haircare, I highly recommend following Javon Ford — a cosmetic chemist who breaks down the why behind the ingredients in your favorite products. His explanations are clear, approachable, and grounded in real formulation science.
Final Thoughts
When it comes to heat styling, silicones are less “enemy” and more “armor.” Silicone-based protectants excel at shielding from high heat, while silicone-free options shine for everyday or moderate heat routines.
The smartest approach? Match your protectant to your styling habits. If you’re heat-heavy (silk presses, flat irons, curling), lean into silicones. If you’re heat-light (blow-dry, diffuser, occasional wand), silicone-free serums like JVN’s are more than enough.
Either way — your strands deserve protection. Because style should never come at the cost of hair health.
Have you tried silicone-based or silicone-free heat protectants? Share your experience in the comments — I’d love to hear what works for you!
